Summer quick gas mileage tips.

I would get calls probably two or three times a week as the summer travel months started. These calls almost always had similar questions and that was what could you do to increase your gas mileage for your summer trip. So here's some quick tips some easy tips if you're not having any problems with your car on how to increase your gas mileage make sure that it keeps you financially viable for your summer vacation. 

The first one is an easy one and that is tire pressure especially if you're towing something check the tire pressure on what ever you're towing. If you have access to nitrogen in those tires I strongly recommend nitrogen for the most consistent tire pressure. One low tire even if it's only 2 or 3 pounds low can affect your mileage on a road trip dramatically it can also wear your tires out very quickly.

The second tips another easy one if it's been a long time since your last tune up you should have your spark plugs checked, that's an easy thing a lot of people can do it on their own you're looking for wear on the tip of the spark plug really dark black or wetness on the spark plugs that means it's time to change them and spark plugs could have a huge impact on gas mileage. Most new model vehicles have spark plugs last 6090 or even 100,000 miles, But if you like me and you're not in a brand-new car 30,000 miles is a good rule of thumb check the spark plugs.

Another quick gas mileage Tip is your air filter, Very easy to check just look your owners manual. Again you're looking for excessive dirt debris in that air filter, air filters can be purchased at your dealer of most part stores for between 7 and $15. The better your car breathes the better the mileage will be.

Most part stores and gas stations carry some sort of fuel system cleaner fuel injector cleaner something along that line it's added to a full tank of gas and will help your mileage as well.

Last but not least is simple driving advice keep off the leadfoot use your cruise control whenever possible. Setting your cruise control at 75 or 76 and keeping that consistent speed will keep your vehicle from shifting back and forth through the gears and will help your overall fuel mileage by 3 to 5% sometimes.

Last little footnote just because you have it doesn't mean you have to take it with you. I would have customers come in with an empty backseat and an empty hatchback and then a big rooftop carrier on the vehicle. With those rooftop carriers you might as will just pour gas out on the ground. Their practical and if you needed to use it if you don't need it don't put it on your car that Drag and resistance will reduce your fuel mileage dramatically on the long trip. If you're making dramatic elevation changes or you're seeing big swings and temperature good idea to check your tires on your fill up so when you stop grab the tire gauge make a quick check make sure they're still where they are supposed to be, temperature can cause those tires to drop in pressure and obviously that will make your mileage go back down.

Above all be safe have fun is good common Sense.

AIr filter and climate filter..... Time to save some money.

Here is a chance for you to save some money on your routine maintenance. First if you are not in the habit of looking at things like filters, fluids, and brake pads when the shop tells you to replace them, please get in the habit. Shop keepers prefer it, and it will give you piece of mind. Okay with that said on with my two cents.

The air filter has been part of the engine for as long as you have been driving, bottom line the better the engine can breathe the better mileage and the better it will run. Now sometime in the last two decades they added the interior air filter, a/c filter, hepa filter, or climate filter. Now the theory is great like your engine make sure the driver can breath and the car run better (haha). Okay this filter takes the air you bring in from outside and runs it through a filter, hopefully keeping you more comfortable on road trips perhaps with high wind or heavy pollution keeping that mess outside. Now that is great and I can tell you a lot of passengers have benefited. Kind of the auto industry standard of creating need where we did not know one existed, but now how can we live without it.  Okay so what is my point...

Located behind you glove in 90 percent of the models is the climate filter, ask at your next service and the technician will show you. The filters range in price from 7.00 up to 55.00 for the part depending on the make and model, of course the aftermarket is cheap and you get what you pay for. I mean for 7.00 bucks once you see it, you might say to yourself why bother, I would agree. Spend the money for HEPA or equivalent filter or just don't do it. Okay anyway the snag is most shops charge up to 70.00 to install the filter, DO NOT LET THAT HAPPEN.  This is a highly competitive item and if it needs replacement at all the price should be half that plus parts. Call around do you due diligence and have you shop match the price, again if they wont why are you going there?  Now my blog is not a do-it yourself thing. A good fair shop will work with you and the price should already be something that feels fair to you, so maybe it is worth it to just let them do it, but please look at the filter, and then remember what the car smelled like before and was the a/c working up to par. Basically odor and a/c are the only areas this will matter for and I have been pulling my filter out about every 10,000 miles and banging it on the garbage can and then vacuuming it, hitting it with my favorite air freshener and I am around 45,000 miles. Not to mention I personally do not like someone going through my glove box anyway.

Okay my last note on the climate filter. This filter will get dirty, the shop will spare no dramatics in showing you the high level of dirt and debris that has gathered here. Use common sense, somehow we all made it to this point without this highly refined feature. Granted it makes sense, but it is a huge profit center and easy like 2 minutes easy to replace. Dealers and Shopkeepers I am sorry this is like asking customers to pay for air filter installs and wiper blade refill installation. Take care of us and we will keep coming back.

Added after post. So I should give a big, big heads up for some models it is vital that the recirculate versus fresh air setting are cycled correctly. If not hold onto your hats for a 1700.00 dollar plus bill. Here is a rule to live by, if you think it is going to break slow down, don't force it. If you have issues after a recent visit anywhere with a/c recirculate versus fresh like noise or flashing light contact your dealer, call me. I can help!

Tire light

The ever popular tire light.....\
yes this is it. The famous horseshoe. Not sure how better to describe it but a few models use the image to the right illuminating a critical tire in red and a low tire in yellow. The image on the left will illuminate steady on a low tire and flash on a critical tire.

Now this was important for a number of reasons, but basically the systems are sensitive and because of this built in sensitivity the system can cause issues for the operator and make you less concerned when the light is on than you should be. I say this because in my 25 years no area on a vehicle is neglected more than tires. It is almost scary to me when you consider the consequences of a high speed blow out. Been there and done that and I do not recommend it.

So here is the nut shell of how they work. They are set up with a range say on most passenger cars 35 to 40 lbs of pressure is the range and depending on the model the light will come on if the tire drops below 35 or the tire is over inflated (also very dangerous and hard on the tire). Now I will say this, the technology is far from perfect as a matter of fact the only people that hate this light more than you are the service people who field the 60 phone calls a day and see at least 5 or 10 customer a days with the issue of the light.

Just get to know your tires, for real, look at them get down on your hands and knees with a flash light and inspect the inside edge and the outside edge, be aware of the tire pressure where it is and where it should be, if you are not sure the drivers door jam has a sticker in it and the back pages of your owners manual also tell you the pressure. However some dealers may change the rules a bit, colder climates may set pressures slightly higher so the lights do not pop on in zero temp weather. Just ask them if you are not sure. Please though for safety sake.

I cannot tell you the number of times I walk a guest to a vehicle to show them the metal cords hanging out of the inside edge of the tire, it is expensive and life threatening and this is just a handful of people that come in. Who knows about the rest of the population out there roaming around with the air hanging out of their tires. Be careful and above all like I said get to know your tires.

Some quick ideas on tire lights as I started out, look for stores like Costco and dealers like Toyota and Lexus that will offer Nitrogen, sometimes free, sometimes 15 to 40 bucks. Nitrogen is a real benefit, it will remain at a steady pressure saving your tire life and mileage I have experience with the product and endorse it 100%. It is safe and effective way to keep your tires safe, then when the light does come on you can almost be assured you have a leak, a nail, or are loosing air somewhere. The other idea on tire lights is elementary, go online, call the dealer, or break out the owners manual and read the 3 or 4 pages on the tire light system. The more you know the better and safer you will be.

Here are some key points for your info.

• If the temp has dropped below 30 the light may come on, as long as it is not flashing and you do not have a visual flat drive the car for a bit and as the tires heat up the light will go out.
• If the light comes on while driving, no matter what the hassle get out and check the tires, keep a gauge handy and air up if your low. Let me tell you 50 miles on a low tire can ruin the tire, change the alignment and cost you a pretty penny in fuel.
• A flashing light is two things, a tire under 10lbs or a bad sensor get it handled immediately
• Do not ignore the light unless you know the reason it is on, some owners install customer wheels and the light is on cause the sensors were removed, if you know that just be in the habit of checking, otherwise treat this light like an important life saving device, that is what it is.
• Most systems run on sensors (installed in the valve stem) and a radio signal transmits to a receiver in the vehicle. If you are buying a 2004 Lexus SC430 one of the first models with the system, the batteries are 10 plus years old, you will have to replace the sensors eventually because the batteries go bad, do this do not ignore it. I promise the 130.00 sensor is going to save you 1400.00 in tires.

Hardly a fool proof system as a matter of fact it is flawed all over the place, but really when was the last time you checked your tires with a gauge at fill up. Okay then your were already a flawed system, this system just does the work 75% of the time effectively. So you do not have to. Be safe and ride safe and hit me up with any questions.

Check engine light, mil, warning light

A moment about your check engine light, also known as MIL (malfunction indicator light).

This can be such a hassle, no single item in your vehicle can create more un-needed stress in your life and the life of your repair facility. This light has so many functions this is meant to be objective advice I suggest you follow it based on the situation.

So the check engine light is usually yellow in color and is situated to be seen very easily. Most likely right near the speedometer it will either have a picture of an engine or it will say "check engine" if you are not sure snap a photo and email or text me, or refer to the back of your owners manual. This will have a diagram with all the lights on it.

Okay so the light came on or is on, here is the list of things to ask yourself.

• Did you recently get gas
• Change elevation drastically
• Have service done on the vehicle (last two to three days)
• Do you top off your fuel, I mean add until you cant add more.
• Is the light flashing***

Okay if you recently got fuel then you may have a loose or faulty gas cap, especially newer models 2006 and newer. These models (most) have vapor recovery systems on them designed to keep you from leaking dangerous fuel vapors into the atmosphere. So if you find the cap off, loose, or think it might be faulty then tighten the cap and drive the car for a day or two. The vehicle has to go through a series of drive cycles with the cap on tight to retest and clear the check engine light. Now this is typically safe to do and as long as the light does not start flashing then you should be on the way to problem solved. I still encourage you to take a glance under the hood, check oil and look for any leaks (this is more for your piece of mind). It is still a good practice.

Change elevation drastically, this is very rare now days but the vehicles in the late 90s and early 2000 had systems designed to compensate or change the computer based on the air intake, you could see a light if the computer is slow to adjust or if the system has build up from use on the adjuster. This should remedy in 12 to 24 hours if not call the dealer, double check the gas cap.

Have you had recent service? I cannot tell you the number of Lexus RX models I would see on a monthly basis that had the light come on a day or two after service with local independent shops. The shops would accidentally knock the hose off the bottom of the air filter intake housing, this is hard to get to, and cannot be seen without removing the air box. If you suspect this might be the case return to the facility that changed the oil and air filter, have them check it. If they do not know or cannot find it then have them commit in writing to pay for repair, if they caused the issue, of course. Most shops will charge around 50.00 dollars to fix it otherwise.
If you top off your fuel.... Stop! Okay this is tempting and hard habit to break especially when fuel prices go up and down. The problem may take years to develop but it will be pricey to fix. You basically are covering the fuel vapor recovery system with fuel, and believe it or not the fuel can damage the seals in the system they stop holding vacuum and it will leak causing a check engine light similar to the loose gas cap, but far more expensive to fix. I have seen this repair exceed 1000.00 dollars and in most states the vehicle will not pass yearly emissions tests if the light is on and the fuel leaks. If your light is not on you may avoid this by stopping the practice, simply let the fuel go until the handle pops. Now this applies to 2006 and newer vehicles, and again it is most models. Double check with me by email or your dealer if you are not sure.

***IF THE LIGHT IS FLASHING this means a system has failed and the vehicle should be shut off and call your repair facility. I promise that I have seen hundreds if not thousands spent in the effort to save a 40.00 tow bill. It is not worth it to try and see if you can get the light to go off by driving slower, getting off the freeway, or adding oil and waiting until morning. You could of course check for obvious things like low fluid, or vehicle engine temp, and leaks. However chances are if the light is on & flashing then you are at a critical point, don't take the chance. Pull over, review the owners manual, and call the tow company. This I promise will save you money.

Okay finally I covered this because the dealer is getting 3 to 5 phone calls a day relating to check engine lights and these issues above are most common, but do not gamble. Most dealers will check codes for free, if they don't then Auto Zone and Pep Boys will once you have the code you can email me or call the delaer. If you are not 100 percent sure like I said do not take the chance, get that code and call.

Hot spot brake rotors

(QUESTION FROM BLOG FOLLOWER)

Chris,

The local tire/brake/lube place recently checked my brakes and said the disc(sp?) had some "hot spots" that needed to be ground down and they were going to charge me $40.00 or more to do it. Is that necessary?

 

Thank you for the question, the answer is really a simple one. Hot spots occur when uneven brake pads cause areas on the brake rotor to heat up, now this can cause more aggressive brake wear but it can also cause vibration and noise. In the case of the later then I would go ahead and have the brake rotors machined. This is a process of using a lathe to shave off a small layer of metal on the brake rotor and making the surface smooth again. If you do not have noise and vibration (when braking) then I would tell them no thank you! See every time you take a layer of metal off you shorten the life of the rotor and this also can cause the rotors to work less efficiently. It will not dissipate heat as well this will cause excessive heat and warp the rotors more quickly.
So if you had vibration when braking and or noise then spend the money, otherwise dont worry about it.

Some facts on Rotor Resurfacing.

Per rotor the cost should be between 20 and 40 dollars, depending on the model some rotors have to be removed from the front end and turned on a machine at the repair shop, or they hook a machine to the vehicle rotors intact and turn them on the car.
Make sure and call around most shops price match and this is a very competitive item. Places like tire and brake shops usually do a great job pretty cheap. This means one phone call and if you are at the shop that will price match it will save you some cash.


BY THE WAY IF THE SHOP WANTS TO CHARGE YOU FOR A BRAKE INSPECTION TELL THEM YOU WILL GO SOMEWHERE ELSE. BRAKE CHECKS SHOULD BE FREE!!!!

Brake pads, it is time you hear the truth.

BRAKE PADS AND SHIMS!

In the diagram which I will get into more detail on I just wanted you to see the basic brake system. This is so important and the reason I say that is, no system in your car gets compromised, adjusted, modified, and then re-modified more than the brake system. Main reason for this back and fourth method of repair is because we take the car to one shop one time, then another shop the next, and then maybe back to the dealer the next.

I think it is vital to point out that most repair facilities are not in it to rip you off. They are simply towing the company line. That may mean selling you a part from their warehouse rather than offering you a selection of parts as they should. So here is the low down.

The way most shop save you 30 or 40 dollars on a brake job is by simply using a hmmm how shall I put this, they use a sub standard part. Plain and simple they put a brake pad on that is made of super hard pressed graphite and iron, or waste metal super cheap to produce. This gives the brake pad a super long life, but a ridiculously loud squeak and a near guarantee on warped rotors in the future, this means you come back for repairs that you think will be under warranty and you typically find out there is no warranty . In my humble opinion you should always ask what parts are being put on the car in the first place, if they are using an aftermarket or cheaper part that is great but, do any changes need to be made for the part to fit? does anything need to be shaved, clipped, or cut, if so what is being changed and why. What is the price difference to go with factory parts, or the equivalent. So you are simply letting them know you know what your doing I promise it will change everything.

The other reason for the photo or diagram is the shims. The shims are a small metal plate that is on the brake pad (in most makes and models) when the vehicle is shipped from the factory. When I mentioned, clipped, modified, shaved, or thrown away the shims were mainly what I was referring to. Now if you get factory pads then you can reuse the shims (they do cost extra if the shop requests replacement find out why). If you bought your vehicle used, or your last repair was from a local independent or next door mechanic chances are the shims were thrown away. Yep you heard right, 30.00 dollars worth of factory parts tossed in the trash because the aftermarket brake pads did not fit the factory shims, or the shims get cut and modified so they cannot be used again.

Okay I spit out a ton of info there here is the bottom line. If you do not have the factory shims and pads you are still going to stop fine, however you will have a lot of brake squeak, not a little, a lot! Do not let the shop you had do the work, talk you into grease, brake goo, or turning your rotors to quiet the noise down, this will make the noise go away temporarily, but make it worse down the road not to mention the shop will almost surely charge you for the repair. It is vital that at the time of repair you ask the status of the shims, then with the repair facility being aware that you are educated and understand the shims, they will be responsible to you for the what and where condition report. Really that is all you need, this will almost surely prevent you from being taken advantage of. Now if a shop is recommending new shims, make sure and ask why. They are either going away from factory parts and need a different type shim for this part, or they may be going back to factory and need them for the factory pads. Having them explain this prevents the shop from assuming you do not know what is up

Maintenance light, oil change light, reminders

The Maintenance Light (Secret Revealed) The ever popular maintenance light, this little nuisance has become an industry standard since about 2002. Designed to remind the owner that you're due for an oil change. It is often confused with a check engine light, and accounts for about one-third of the phone calls received at dealerships. The secret of the maintenance light is simple; it is tied to your manufacturer recommended interval, it simply watches your odometer and is tied to nothing else. No major syustem, no secret light watching your oil level, just simple math. For example, if your interval is set at 3,000 miles at 2,700 miles the light will start to flash, at 3,000 the light will come on and stay on steady. Now if you change the oil and filter yourself, light will still be on. It must be reset and only in rare cases does a dealer need to be involved. However the reset procedures are complicated so the manufacturer is relying on you to make a phone call. Thus advising you to bring in your vehicle and they will reset the light, now they may do this free, but you will definitely hear all about maintenance due. In other words, this is the manufacturer's answer to the little sticker in the left corner of the windshield. I stress to you that when your maintenance light comes on, don't panic. No harm will come to your car, no mechanical system is tied to this light. The reset procedures vary, and can typically be looked up on youtube or reviewed in all owners manuals. Send me your make and model and I will send you the reset procedure. Now the other advice would be, if you're due for an oil change, get your oil changed. Then ask the repair facility to reset your light. Or change the oil yourself see the manual below. **Helpful Hint** Be sure to ask your dealer (or repair facility) to reset your light, even if it hasn't come on. This insures that the light will not come on unless you're actually due for an oil change. Don't forget, this is the maintenance light we're talking about. If you're not sure which light is on, snap a pic and send it to me. How to Change the Oil on Your (Google Affiliate Ad)